The Luftwaffe must be over London…

It’s early. 

Before sunrise. 

The sky is only just beginning to light. 

Just twilight and it begins. 

Distant at first. But the coming closer. 

Growing in number. 

Drawing nearer.

The howling.

It starts far away barely a whisper but the first howling voice is joined by another and another. 

It builds and builds until the inextrable sound sweeps like a wave towards us and surrounds us. 

The dawn chorus of howling. 

The crowing of the island’s feral cockerels. 

The sound keys a memory and a familiar voice echoes in my head. A dear familiar voice from days gone by sagely intoning, “ah, the Germans must be bombing London.”

“I remember when Chalky, Lackery and I were stationed in Yorkshire we always knew when the Luftwaffe were over London…” and one of Grandad Fred’s war stories about pheasants calling to one another flashes through my mind. 

His eyes filling with tears as he recalls long dead comrades and distant adventures and so do mine as I remember him.

Football Tour

Last Saturday I travelled with my school football team to Cayman Brac! An away match by plane, so cool.

It was a fun day and a close match 2:2! We had time to explore Skull Cave and had lunch at Popo Jebs Pizza.



Here is George Town from the air you can see three cruise ships in the background.

While we were on tour we heard the news about Fray Bentos passing away, seeing how close we are to Cuba here it was quite a big deal.

Click here for help with this one…

Lady of Letters

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We were out celebrating last night at The Wharf. Victoria has officially been awarded her Masters! She is now Victoria Read (MA). We are all so proud of her fantastic achievement.

The Wharf is very posh, we had a table on the waterside overlooking the sea. The night included live music from a really great band and tarpon feeding.  It was a bit special. I had lobster and turtle! They are so tasty!

November has been a mad busy fun month, and here are just a few highlights.

At school we indulged in a spot of time travel looking back at the history and heritage of the Cayman Islands. A slightly surreal experience as students and staff came to school in traditional Cayman clothes, harking back to a simpler more isolated time.

To help add to the fun parents sent in the most amazing array of traditional cakes so by the end of day it was more like Woodstock, what the collective sugar rush, than a primary school. There was, to name a few, pineapple upside down cake, banana bread, coconut biscuits and thick, dense, cassava cake. The latter more like a set syrup than a cake, dripping with sugar and capable of inducing diabetes with just a glance. I am convinced the island tilted slightly under the weight of the food but fortunately thanks to the eating efforts of the staff and pupils balance was restored, phew.

The students looked amazing in their Cayman threads!

Thinking about it there has been quite a bit of dressing up this month…

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Pirates week started with a bang, literally, what with the steel band competition, fireworks night and a street party. Then it just got louder!

Saturday brought the spectacle of The Pirate Landing. The local Red Coats valiantly tried to defend George Town but were soon overwhelmed and taken captive by the cut throats!

With the pirates in charge the party really got started and a carnival ensued. It was a real riot of colour and music. There must have been 30 floats. What with the sun and the sea as a backdrop it made Notting Hill seem bit drab…

The poor Red Coats suffered the ignominy of being paraded through town in chains as part of the Carnival.  I have it on good authority that it is going to be alright and that this weekend they will escape and the pirate leader will be brought to justice.  I will keep you posted on developments. (Just in case you are worried).

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To blend in with the rapscallions who were infesting the island we all thought it was best if dressed as salty sea dogs and just threw ourselves in with the ruffians. It seemed to work and I can report so far we have passed unnoticed. A motley crew are The Castaways.

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Exhausted by all the pirate themed activity we retreated to a hidden haven and the relative quiet of Clive and Carol’s house and a sunset Pot Luck Supper around the Baker’s Pool on Bank Holiday Monday.

What with Pirates’ Week and Heritage celebrations, night swimming, beach picnics, street parties, Poppy in the Netball Team, James joining the Marine Conservation Club, me revising for my PADI exam and test, snorkelling with wild turtles, steel bands, time with the gang, a bank holiday, a carnival, fireworks and Victoria off to the Brac November has been really busy… and it is not quite finished yet, tonight it is the turning on of the Christmas Lights, Thanksgiving is coming and next week I am heading over to the Brac for a football match.

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So while we work hard during the week I guess the expat lifestyle is not all bad!

Fireworks Night

Pirates Week Fireworks. It doesn’t need much commentary,  but sufficed to say I soon had a bar full of  people shouting, ‘Oooh’, ‘Arrrr’… it may not be Kempton Park but it has its charms.

After the fire works we wondered down into George Town to join the street party, with three stages of live music and thousands of people dancing the night away. The atmosphere was really friendly with families out and about and half the crowd dressed as pirates!

Saturday promises a parade, an invasion by the pirates and more partying!

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Hello Sailor

11.00 p.m. and I am stood on a near deserted harbor side  with just a music teacher and a pile of steel drums for company.

Nearby can be heard the drunken ramblings of a grounded sailor and across the water drifts the sounds of a container ship being unloaded.

I turn to my silent companion.

‘Come here often?‘, I try as an ice breaker and we both start laughing at the ridiculous image.

Two white guys on a dark dockside late at night minding a large pile of Caribbean drums, surrounded by the detritus of a street party while we wait for a truck to turn up. .

That’s right in life you do have these moments.

Tonight has been ‘Pan in de City’ the first official event of Pirates Week. Earlier in the evening our respective school bands had been part of the 100 or so musicians performing in the Annual Cayman Schools’ Steel Band Competition. The Main Street through George Town closed off so our students could perform on the sea front.


It was a great fun evening and the bands were brilliant Prospect came a very credible 2nd beaten only by a private secondary school. (Admittedly James and Poppy’s school so no mixed loyalties there).


But they were brilliant, the average age of the band is 10 and they held their own against the local university band! So proud, go Prospect!

As I watched them play I figured it was probably the most authenticity Caribbean event of our adventure so far! If you don’t count the food, the beach, working in a local school, the life style… well you know what I mean.

(Sorry its sideways!)

11:15 and back on the dockside we now sit on upturned drums listening to the waves and  watch the drunken sailor fall over again. Shouting obscenities at some invisible protagonist he jumps up and staggers unsteadily off down the street moving like a marionette in the hands of a careless child. His ravings fading into the dark.

Through the night we hear the low rattle and clash of an approaching truck and a beaten up old van comes at last to our rescue.

 

Birthday and Bonfire Night

For my birthday we went to the Westin for Sunday brunch. A genuine smaugasboard of lush grub and free flowing champagne it was lovely.


After brunch we spent a few hours relaxing on the beach, the sea was a bit rough but we had a swim anyway.

On Thursday we saw Roger and Sally off, it was a lovely couple of weeks and I think they enjoyed themselves.

All in all it has been a busy week and a half since half term, work has been hectic so come the weekend it was nice to unwind. The Castaways gathered on the beach under the stars with a few candles and loads of booze and laughed Bonfire Night away. 

A few of us arrived early for some snorkelling. Just off Spotts is a large area of sea grass and where there is sea grass there is a good chance of swimming with sea turtles. We were in luck and spotted two each about three to four feet long, as calm as you like. We got really close to them, absolutely beautiful and a great start to the evening.

We also spotted a couple of lobsters, I kid you not they were huge as big as my flipper easily two foot long!

Just lovely a really low key event we had the beach to ourselves and the sky provided the fireworks in the form of shooting stars!

We ordered pizza and the delivery driver turned up on the beach with the boxes, he did not question the address when we said we wanted 8 pizzas delivered to Spots Beach he just said ok and 20 minutes later he arrived on his moped! 

In my spare time I have been furiously studying the online theory for my PADI Certification  I am determined to complete the course and assessment and qualify by Christmas so that when Caz and Pete come out we can have a dive. (Chloe your dive will be all booked up for when you visit, you will love it!).

This weekend is a bank holiday weekend and the start of Pirates Week! Click here for more.

Mermaid

For my birthday I was treated to my first dive in the Caribbean and I am hooked! I dived at Sunset House Dive School click here.

Just incredible an hour of theory and training in the pool before hitting the sea. 

It was magical. The fish and the coral were stunning. 

We flew, swimming does not describe it, in 50 foot of crystal clear water surrounded by sea life. Jacks, grouper, parrot fish, lion fish, trumpet fish and barracudas all colours and sizes.

The high point was rounding a coral outcrop and there she was, just stunning, she just took my breath away!


8 foot of mermaid! Click here

She is beautiful and you just hover there in front of her it’s like being in a cathedral.

I’ve already signed up for my full PADI Course! 

After I sat at the bar overlooking the sea enjoying an ice cold beer and a cheese burger and watched the sun go down. Just perfect!

Roger and Sally

Our first visitors arrived this week to spend half term with us and despite the utterly relentless rain we have had a good time! The rain has been torrential at times but we have managed to snatch time out between down pours.

Roger and Sally arrived bang on time at 3:55pm on Monday.

A tour of the island and lunch at Rum Point. Mud Sldes are lovely!

We had a visit to Starfish Point. We saw 105 Starfish the most we have seen in one visit.

On the way back we came round past Eastend and stopped to see the sights, including a garden full of concrete creatures and the Blow Holes. (James is wearing his skateboard knee pads, his knees are currently shredded from falling off a couple of times…).

The National Gallery proved a welcome distraction from the rain.

Ching Chings at Smith’s Cove.


Landing fish at Smith’s Cove.

These tide in nicely with James’s art homework, he took some lovely photos in Soth Sound and the. Had to interpret them in different mediums. 


We had a lovely meal out at Casanova’s Italian…though note to self they include the service charge so don’t tip as well!

It is all quite exhausting really and despite her protestations to the contry she is still our baby…

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Half Term!

We have reached a big milestone today! 

Half term in our new jobs and new schools! 

After a whirlwind three months I sit here on the veranda with a glass of wine, music playing and a cat curled up on my feet and as my staff are so fond of saying, “breath”. 

Tonight I ur resident owls are circling, a mated pair who have claimed our road as their own, they are like grey ghosts flying up and down the road each night. Sometimes they hoot and screech. Other nights they are completely silent. This evening they flew past me as I was getting out of the car, no more than four feet off the ground and only three feet away, they did not make a sound just glided past. They are big birds too, they did not half make me jump!

The frogs in the garden are ‘pipping’ and ‘chirping’ little wet, falling water sounds all around in the dark. The frogs are tiny, they could sit on a penny, tiny and perfect.


It began to sink in this week this is my second headship! Now that’s a claim. Head of two different schools on two sides of the world, cool. 

Oriel had a visit from OFSTED this week. Not being there was really strange and while part of me was immeasurable pleased not to be there it was like sitting in the waiting room at the maternity ward or watching you kids compete knowing they are on their own. I felt helpless. The outcome of the inspection will I guess reflect the performance of the team over the two days, the work they have done this last half term and just how ingrained the legacy I left behind is. I am confident they will do well but it is a two week wait for the report…

Meanwhile here in the Caribbean we are feeling settled, Vic had her second visit to The Brac, I am quite jealous really as it is quite an adventure, still I will get out there! Yes I will! 

The children are enjoying school and finding their feet, Poppy is thriving! And I am loving Prospect. My staff, the buggers, do have a habit of seeing me coming a switching to a thick patois to try to catch me out but I am learning the lingo fast and have been surprising them by showing them I know exactly what they have said. ‘Wagwan‘ goes a long way, especially if followed by a kiss of the teeth and drawling ‘foolishness!’ My lot think it’s really funny. I think they think I am rather eccentric, little do they know just how eccentric!

My Year 6 have heritage lessons on a Wednesday learning about traditional Cayman craft and culture. The lessons are amazing, this week they were looking at traditional Cayman weaving. I asked Mr Christian who leads the session if he could point me in the direction of where I could get a traditional Cayman hat.  

Two hours later I was the proud owner of this freshly made beauty! My new duty hat, practical and stylish. That’s right a hand woven Caymanian Sun hat!

Oh the beard? Well that is me getting ready for Pirates Week. Cayman’s National Week when it all goes a bit piraty round here. My great, great, great, great, great Aunt Mary, Mary Read, was a local pirate of some renown so I reckon I stand in good stead and even if the genealogy is a bit suspect it’s a good story and one that goes down well here. 

‘And how do you spell Read? Is it Reid?’ Comes the question.

‘Nope’ says I, ‘R, E, A, D, like the pirate.’  

‘Oh,’ comes the response full of a new found respect and acceptance (I imagine). 

The Caymanians love to find a familial link when they meet a new person. Often their first question on meeting is ‘who ya for,’ followed by a long  mutual exploration (well not that long, it’s a small island) of family trees until a common link is found. It’s normally about two degrees of separation… the Kevin Bacon Game has really short rounds here as most people share great grandparents. But their is real delight when clan and family links are made and shared histories and family tales quickly follow.

I reckon chief family tree tracer Gubby will be able to confirm my bonifidies… dad? A simple yes will suffice to prove my link to the black sheep of the family and establish my credentials as having local connections! 

Poppy and I have matching smashed toes this week.


Hers from a door, mine from a rock on the beach, mine has meant a trip (no pun) to A&E and four follow up visits to the doctor but, fingers crossed, it is on the mend! James thought it was all very funny until Marcel inducted him to the club on Wednesday night by biting and scratching his foot while he slept. Victoria is breathing a sign of relief as she reckons three toes in plasters is the full set and she is safe!


When questioned about the Curious Incident of the Toe in the Night Time he said he was innocent, and with those big eyes who can help but believe him!

On the way home, for dinner, tonight I stopped at Da Kit Chin and picked up festival and pork.


Now it might not look much but people drive for miles to get food here and there is always a line of customers around the corner, the food is great! I suppose it fills the niche in the food chain that fish and chips does in the UK. Festival is a local bread.

And if prof were needed that it has been a busy three months…


Sleepy girl and sleepy cats.

So half term and we have our first visitors on their way. Roger and Sally are coming out for a ten day stay so I reckon we will go sailing, head up to Rum Point, go on the submarine, head out to Sting Ray City, do Brunch at the Westin and bum around on the beach… sounds like a plan to me anyway.