What kind of bird is that?

Adam and I set off to the north of the island and Over the Edge for a coffee and Jonny cakes this morning. The resturant is a shack built out over the sea on stilts and it is just idyllic We sat watching the world go by when a Magnificent Frigatebird csme to visit

Hovering alongside the deck, just hanging in the air, close enough that I could have reached out and touched it, was an enormous bird. The aptly named Magnificent Frigatebirds. These birds are huge seabirds that just sit on the breeze and hover effortlessly, they look like pterodactyls. 

To give you an idea of her size her wingspan was easily over six feet.


An American tourist stood next to me watching it hover by the deck and asked what bird it was I turned and realised the whole clientele and staff of the resultant had all stopped what they were doing just mesmerised as the Frigatebird danced on the wind for us. Just stunning.

We headed back along the east side of the island sightseeing, 

We paused to look at the concrete animals and a giant carved tiki man. As we drove along we tried to guess which house was Iggy Pop’s. 

We parked up at the top of the bluff, I think just about the highest point of the island sitting 40 to 50 feet above the sea, and drank in the view.

We spotted a sign saying Kite Beach so we parked up and headed down the rough path to find a wide beach. We unpacked my trusty kite, I carry it in the car for just such occasions and we spent a quiet twenty minutes flying her. 

At Colliers Road we drove into the interior and back.

We parked up at the monument of the Wreck of the 10 Sails and explored the memorial garden.


The Wreck of the Ten Sail was a historic shipwreck event that occurred off the East End of Grand Cayman on 8 February 1794. Ten ships that were part of a convoy on its way from Jamaica to the United States and Britain wrecked on the surrounding reef. While local residents braved the stormy waters and successfully rescued the ships’ crews and passengers, eight people from the convoy died.

Heading back west we stopped at Eagle Rays for a coffee and then drove home.

A quick change and off to Seven Mile Beach where we rented two wave runners (jet skis) and spent a mad half hour zooming up and down the beach at 42mph! Completely mad and such fun just rocketing over the water. My arms and legs ached with the effort of just holding on for dear life. 

Prawn curry for tea and then quiz night at the pub. The second night in a row. The team we were in won on both nights so with immediate effect I am retiring from quizzing so I can quit at the top of my game!

Adam and Eden (Boys’ Week continued…)

Boys’ Week and another fun packed couple of days. On Monday we headed up the island to Captain Marvin’s and out to Stingray City, it was a bit choppy but none-the-less a cracking day on a boat in North Sound. snorkeling and swimming with the rays, what more can you ask for?

We rounded off the day at Al Fresco in West Bay a couple of cold beers and dinner before heading back to Sunset House to watch the night divers entering the water.

It was very funny watching their lights playing on the water surface as they swam below, two clearly became lost and had to turn back to the shore!

Not sure I am ready for it yet but it’s definately on the list! (Sorry Mum but yep).

Tuesday we went diving at Eden Rock and then for a spot of snorkelling on a wreck just off Seven Mile Beach. 

Lots of caves fissures and tunnels to explore a great little dive near the shore. Plenty of fish to be seen including the now ubiquitous tarpon, swimming with these prehistoric monsters is a joy. They are totally unfazed by having divers around them as they swim through the caves and cracks or just hang in the water. 

The wreck snorkel was lovely, again loads of fish and crystal clear waters but to add a little interest today there was a really strong rip running along parallel to the shoreline. At times we had to work hard not to get swept away! Even with fins on it was very hard going.

As we returned back to the safety of the sea pool a little harbour wth its own channel to the sea, that we had used to enter the wreck site a family (mum, dad and teenager) were swimming out of the channel. I stopped them and told them about the rip, I said I thought they should go back but they were determined and knew better, they were not even wearing flippers! 

Judging by the lobster red sun burns mum and dad were sporting I reckoned they were off the cruise ship for the day. I tried again to dissuade them but stil no. So I explained to them that if they could not get back to let the rip carry them along the beach and swim diagonally across it in the direction of flow towards the shore and try to exit at the set of steps a couple of hundred meters further past the wreck or if they missed that onto the beach about quarter of a mile away.

Gruffly dad acknowledge that I had spoken but clearly he did not believe me and with no further comment pushed on and down the channel followed by his wife and daughter who both shrugged looking a bit sheepish.

Adam and I got out of the water and watched them reach the end of the channel where they were immediately in trouble. The rip caught them. They fought it for a couple of minutes before it just washed them away they bobbed helplessly along like corks swept along towards the wreck! They just about avoided smashing into the boat itself washing through its superstructure and beyond. They shot past the steps and then obviously my words of advice began to sink in and instead of trying to swim against the rip they started swimming diagonally across the rip but with the flow. We watched the three of them stagger out onto the beach.

It took them a while to recover before they trudged back up the beach to where their stuff was and where we sat on our deck chairs. 

They reached their stuff and slumped down visibly shaken.

“How was the swim?” I asked cheerfully.

Dad looked at me no longer quite so cocksure and with real sincerity just said ‘thank you, we were in real trouble your advice was right’. 

“Well,” I said sagely, “you had about another 1/2 a mile before the rip turns away from the shore and out over deeper water where it eventually slacks off but it’s a long swim back and it is scary if you don’t know these waters”.

They just sat there open mouthed and stared out to sea the cogs turning in their heads wondering what might have happened had they not bumped into us. After a short while they gathered their belongings together and trudged off each saying thank you as they passed.  All of them just a little paler and with just a touch more respect for the sea.

In truth they would have been OK even without my advice as is closer to a mile before the rip turns out to sea and they would have passed five or six exit points. As it travels along the coast the rip eases making getting out less difficult but it’s still tiering and very scary. It’s panic that kills.

Oh the mask? A slight mishap while chasing a huge tarpon… fish and diver both fine, mask not so much… the dangers of full contact sports. How we laughed.

Adam and the Abyss

Victoria and the kids are away and it’s the last week of term. School has been hectic with leaving ceremonies and the end of term organisation. I took the opportunity with the family away to head into work early and stay late in an effort to try to catch up with myself! In the meantime my sister in law got married in Cyprus, the kids and Victoria are having a great time, it looks wonderful!


However the consolation is that my oldest friend Adam flew out to keep me company! We have known each other since Primary School, in Malaysia. The wife and kids are away… my oldest bud is here and schools out it must be…

BOYS WEEK! 

So he arrived Thursday evening. I picked him up from the airport and we headed straight to my Book Club, the British Expatriate Educationalists Reading Society, or B.E.E.R.S. (pure coincidence honest). B.E.E.R. has its home at Grand Old House and the bar staff were ready for us as usual pouring  out our drinks as they saw us walking down the drive. It would only be more perfect if they played the cheers tune for our arrival… I might just work on that. In the meantime live jazz will have to do.  The head of the bar staff is even called Sam, Samantha. 


Here we are discussing our book, obviously, Robert Harris – The Conclave, a light but fast passed political thriller about the selection of a pope.  Well we are going into the holidays we wanted something for the beach.

Friday. I had to work but afterwards Adam and I whizzed over to Eden Rock for a dive when I got home. His first in the Caribbean and clear water. It was a bit of a novelty for him not having to wear a dry suit. A stunning first dive, we swam through caves and found huge tarpon hovering in a shoal 30ft down stunning and a bit spooky.



Saturday we went snorkelling at Spotts and saw wild sea turtles, which was nice. We toured the Island and went to Hell. We then made rendang and Clive popped round and joined us to watch the lions game on catch up, which was very nice. 


Sunday it was up very early and out the door by 6:45am. One of our friends is leaving the island and heading back to Canada so we, the lads from book club, took him for a two tank dive up at the East End and a spot of lunch. 

We jumped of the boat and swam over the ‘Northwall’ and descended to 40ft. At this depth there is less colour, the warm reds and yellows of sunlight filtered out by the water above, the world turns green then to hues of blue. We moved down through a fissure in the coral called Spilt Rock emerging to hover at about 85ft down  just hanging in the water above the deepest blue there is.

We could see the wall stretching down for 100ft before it disappeared into the gloom, 4000ft of water the sea just dropping away beneath us darker and darker blue until it faded to black and the near endless crushing depth of the Cayman Trench. 


Imagine standing a quarter of the way up Everest and looking down. Just breath taking.  

We clung to that cliff face, insignificant ungainly creatures, dangling above the vertigo inducing drop.  We took turns to swim out over the fathomless inky depths before swimming, quickly,  back to comforting solidness of the cliff face. None of us were brave enough to go more than about 30ft from the Wall, to be out there above the abyss, so we just hung there in awe the void stretching away below.

As we looked down into that deep blue timeless darkness it whispered to us. It sang a silent siren’s song, it beckoned, it called, pulled, wanting to hold us in its dark embrace. 

But our imaginations conjured up long forgotten memories of teeth and tentacles. As the dark reached out to us it triggered the primal fear we all have of the dark, the depths and the unknown. A defence mechanism as old as time, a gift from our earliest days. And we recognised the dark for what it really is. Cold lonely death far from the light. Endless starless night. 

The Void. The Abyss.

It is the dark we dread and as we looked apon it we could feel it watching us back with millions of unseen eyes, we could feel the pressure, it’s presence.  

Today I stared into the face of one of my horrors, a horror we all have inside us and I came away knowing that the thing we fear is real and we are truly, completely justified in being scared of it! 

That crushing dark is only 1/4 of a mile from my bed. It’s there every time I go swimming just a few hundred feet away, closer in some places. When diving near the shore it waits, endlessly patient, just beyond sight. It surrounds us here, it’s in the National song, ‘merging to darkest blue’, its very existence evident in the colour of the sea’s surface around the island, a daily reminder.

I’ve seen the real deep and it is amazing terrifying! Truly the stuff of nightmares and oh so beautiful. But I did it and I did it again 45 minutes later! 

Brave? No just stipidly currious and dumb stubborn. 

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.

It seemed an appropriate way to send one of the gang off!


Water, Water Everywhere…

Rainy season is here. For the last few days we have had torrential rain showers.

On Thursday evening it was great sitting on the deck at Grand Old House watching lightning dancing across the sea. Sheets of lightening turning the night to day, amazing forks of lightning playing along the horizon like fingers of fire, before the heavens opened and we had to dash to the shelter of the bar.

Trapped by the downpour we had to have a couple more drinks and watch the rain… I mean what else could civilised folk do?

Me looking like a dilettante poet watching the rain.

As if the light shows were not enough we have also had water spouts! Yep genuine water tornadoes. We have seen a few now… but this one was the best and biggest.

It’s hard to understand the scale of the thing but the first picture below was taken from about 8 miles away. the others were taken by fellow Castaway Paul from his school about a mile from the sea, it formed close to the shore just beyond the barrier reef that fringes the island. The spouts form out over open water a spinning funnel or vortex between the sea and the sky. They can pick up boats and hurl them for miles.

This one was immense! The first incident we saw was when three formed at the same time in the sea off Seven Mile Beach. They look like something out of a movie.

But it’s not all storms and waterspouts we also took part in the Flowers Sea Swim last weekend. The Sea Swim is an annual charity event and a huge deal here. Over a thousand swimmers took part in the open water event, gathering on Seven Mile Beach (fortunately no waterspouts – that would have been interesting…) before setting off swimming a mile north along the coast.

Photos from the Cayman Compass.

Now a mile may not seem far and in 25m pool its only about 65 lengths. Easy? Go on you try it in the sea with waves and a strong current and then get back to me.

Victoria and I had been practicing for a couple of months with some of our fellow Castaways so we felt confident and ready.

We set off buffeted by the waves, fighting for space in the water, feet and arms flailing and thrashing everywhere. The sea on the day was rougher than it had been during our practice swims.  A stiff breeze, 1 to 2 foot high swell, at some points the current and waves ran with us helping us along, at others it moved straight off shore and against us, we had to swim hard just to stay still and to fight to keep close to the beach.

The the mile was actually a mile and a quarter as it happens! It was also a really hot day the water was very warm.

There were so many people in the water I reckon you could have walked the course on their backs! It was amazing and horrendous, joyous and at times a bit scary.

Walking along the beach were life guards and supporters. Flanking us on the open water side were wave-runners and lifeguards on paddle board including our neighbour Damo with his now trademark beard and hat.

One swimmer had to be rescued and resuscitated, a close thing apparently, fortunately not me or one of the Castaways. The stricken swimmer got a big shout out and cheer at the end from all the competitors. We were all relieved to see them alive.

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Despite the training it was hard work! I got out at the end and nearly hurled, I felt really quite dizzy and unwell. I was exhausted and overheated. I had to find a quiet shady spot to recover, tipping two bottles of freezing water over my head restored order and returned me to some semblance of normality.

I managed a creditable 39:19 minutes and came 546 out of 1100. So middle of the field and the first Castaway back. (My thanks to Jack for slowing his dad Jon down or he would have caned it!:-), next year I think Jack and Poppy will beat us all…).

The chap that came in first was a Canadian Olympian he completed the course in 16:30 minutes. He said he slowed down to look at the fish! The man is a machine!

Here are just a few of us Castaways at the finish Poppy and Jack the youngest in the group Katherine, Lisa and Victoria swimming for the girls, Paul, Jon and I for the boys.

It was a fabulous event and one I am really pleased I took part in.

The prize giving and speeches at the end of the swim.

We start training for next years swim this week.

Lantern Point

Paul, Cissy and I met at Lantern Point in West Bay this morning for a shore dive from Dive Tech.

The actual dive centre is the nicest I have been to, a gorgeous B&B and dive centre up in the very north of Grand Cayman. Standing on the Iron Shore it looks west over the Caribbean Sea. You can stand on the end of the centre’s jetty and look south over the curve of the bay that is the west of the island and see the whole sweep of Seven Mile Beach, George Town right down to the southern tip of the island and home.

It was a beautiful sunny morning and the sea was a flat as a mill-pond, azure near the coast shading to deepest blue as the water got deeper, hardly a wave the sea surface glittering under a cloudless blue sky.

We kitted up and made our way to the end of the jetty, looked down at crystal clear water below. The water around the jetty is about ten feet deep and it was pristine. Final checks, then one big step off the jetty into the water. We submerged, sinking slowly to the seabed and away.

We followed the slope of the seabed down, slowly descending to about 25 feet and the top of a coral wall. We could see over the lip of coral  a cliff. The sea dropped down to about 60 feet and a sandy bottom.

At the base of the wall we could see The Guardian of the Reef. An 8 feet tall bronze statue of a triton and the second merperson I have had the privilege to meet in Cayman waters! He is father to nymph I met on my very first dive!

We slipped over the edge of the cliff and followed the cliff face down to take a closer look at the Guardian of the Reef.

He is stunning! An imposing figure from myth. Stern, serene and silent. Standing on his plinth looking north. Every bit as handsome as his daughter is beautiful. The water around him an unbelievably clear blue and filled with life.

Having spent time a quiet reflective time with Poseidon we set off south and swimming along the base of the reef wall seeing lots of fish, including a grouper, stunning corals, all quite spectacular!

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The dive was made even more special by the appearance of Cayman Green Turtle. It was swimming down at about 25 feet, calm as you like, it was completely unfazed by us it just glided effortlessly along, ‘flying’ with us. It posed for the camera for a minute in scilent moment of connection with us before heading out into the deep blue!

It was also my first dive in my very own kit a BCD, regulator and dive computer. It was the most comfortable I have been on a dive so now I can get used to having my own equipment rather than using rented equipment. Cissy and Paul helped me get it set up properly.

A cracking morning with good buddies!

Wish you were here?

Sunday morning, early, everyone is asleep and I am sat on the veranda with the cats and a cup of tea. It’s already warming up and it is going to be another hot beautiful day here in Cayman.

It has been a busy couple of months here with lots happening at work. In the last to weeks we have had two being and very public exhibitions and an inspection. We have SATs looming.

The school year is broken down differently so the pattern of terms and half terms I have been used to for twenty years has been somewhat changed and having had no summer break to speak of last year it has been a slog at times.

The year starts around the 17th August with senior staff returning for strategic planning, teachers begin about the 20th for 4 to 5 days of in service training and preparation.

The preparation is longer because we basically pack the schools away for the summer break so if the building is needed as hurricane shelters it is  ready. For the rest of the season we are on 48 and 24 hour notice to clear away but with the majority of teachers off island over the summer we have to pack up. Yes the threat of hurricanes flavours everything.

Around the 24th we have an induction day for new students and on about the 25th kids are back and the year starts properly.

We have a long haul to Christmas with the usual half term but the term is much longer especially for staff who have already put in a couple of week before the kids are back.

Schools here run with a much smaller staff, no dinner ladies fewer Teaching Assistants and ancillary staff. Most primaries have one executive officer (school secretary) so the head and the deputy have much more admin to do on top of our normal duties.

The idea that the smaller school staff is offset by some functions being handled centrally (e.g. building management, finance and recruitment) is actually a fallacy.

In reality in the U.K. we would have had a business manager, a welfare officer and one if not two secretaries who would have done much of the grunt work that the central team does here in both cases the input from the head is actually about the same and so the increase in admin is an increase in real workload.

One point to note is that in reality we could not manage the recruitment and hr here and this has to be done centrally as international recruitment is so much more complex. But again in the U.K. the local authority or academy head office do much of this and we would really only be involved in identifying needs and the interview process. So there is no net loss or gain here in reality.

But because we have much smaller teams and essentially the same work to do the net result is that everyone works much harder.

For instance we are all on duty for lunchtimes and breaks, before and after school most of the time, as the normal duty and supervision load has to be shared over a smaller group. We have no SMSAs (dinner ladies).

At my school parents have over a number of years been allowed to drop their kids of early and collect them late and the school has just coped. This creates an additional load in terms of managing child care and supervision. this something that I have been working on all year. In essence saying to parents they can not just leave their kids at school and expect free child care, that they have a responsibility. It has been like turning a tanker!
There are no supply teachers.

I’ll let that sink in.

If a member of staff is out you can not pick up the phone and call someone in. You have to cover internally. Now imagine three staff are out. Schools in the uk would really struggle with this…. true?

There is no PPA entitlement. 10% of the time table in the UK is allotted for planning time, for non contact time. This has become, rightly, sacred cow. Here we do give staff planning time but it is not protected (it will be going forward but not yet). We have specialist teachers who come in and teach ICT, music, Spanish and PE and teachers have this time for planning but if the specialist are off or are sick or involved in inter-primary or the NCFA (more in a minute) then there is no release time… and this year that has had a BIG impact. Plans are afoot to remedy this but we are not there yet.

So the first term is a long one.

Christmas break is a few days longer than the uk, maybe 3. And then back to school for the middle term. Now this term has, until next year, had no real half term break just a long weekend. But the term is very disrupted by the National Children’s Festival of the Arts, sports day and inter-primary.

These last three are wonderful and are a big deal here but they have the potential to derail the curriculum completely.

The NCFA includes art shows, dance contests, singing contests, choral speaking, poetry recitals, music performances and all sortsit is, as I have said, a wonderful event and a great opportunity to enrich the children’s learning experience and there is huge pressure for schools to participate and expectation from the community that they do.

Inter-primary is also a massive deal a full in on two day athletic contest between all schools. Plus two sports days and a parallel basketball contest. Oh and sailing.

Like I say massive enrichment but potentially a huge disruption in terms of curriculum teaching especially if these opportunities are bolt on or extra curricular, which they have become in many schools.

But change is a reality here and people listen. I have already worked with the department for education and the ministry of education to help write next years Callender and we have stated that all of the preliminary events building up to the main events and the main events for NCFA will take place in the afternoon next year allowing us to ensure we can teach English and math uninterrupted.

We have moved inter-primary slightly to create more space and less disruption. The department for education is also negotiating with the sports leaders to spread out the events calendar to reduce the hit we take from competitions. But most importantly we are working to make these opportunities a planned part of our curriculum not something additional.

And that’s the good thing here we as principals and particularly those that want to, so me, can work directly with the Department for Education and the Ministry. We can even talk directly to the minister and we can actually have an impact and we work together for change. I have been involved with setting the direction of national policy and practice from day one and that is very gratifying!

Back in the UK I was always involved at the Local Authority level as either a rep to the education council or to the schools’ forum, working for the union (branch president for four years) or being centrally involved in the trust and its policy direction but here it is even more so! I get to put on my CV that I worked directly with the DES and Ministry of Education.

Easter is a short break, a week and then the Summer term… no half term break but a whole gaggle of long weekends and bank holidays to break it up. The year ends with June!

Now don’t get me wrong I am really not moaning as living and working here does have its compensations and they do far outweigh any downside! The school and community are great, there is a very real sense here of being embedded in the community that you only get in the UK if you work in rural schools these days. Education in the UK has become very impersonal. Here it has retained that sense of ‘we are all in it together’ ok that means attending more community events and being involved more weekends but, you know what, it’s actually fun. Here there is a sense of everyone mucking in and you get to know more people and it is appreciated. Something that seems to be missing back home…

And when the weekend comes or you get out of school at 5:30 / 6:00 you are done for the day. We live where other people go on holiday, so we hit the beach and swim, sit in our deck chairs and have a beer and we watch the sun go down. We unwind. Weekends are like being on holiday!

We don’t spend the weekend gardening or doing housework and diy. We ring the landlord and we have a cleaner. Out time is our own, so there is real time to decompress and relax.

So when Monday comes we are recharged. Sunburnt but recharged. Maybe we are solar-powered…
Living where we do means we do stuff at weekends like kayaking, paddle boarding, walk-a-thons, beach days, snorkelling, diving, sailing and this month we are training for the Flowers Sea Swim a big event on island.
Being part of an expat community you become a tight bunch quickly, surrogate families to each other brothers and sisters and friends all rolled into one so there is company when you want it and a real social life.

In the next few weeks we are off to see Footloose (Vic said I have to go), yes it am-dram, but it is the only show in town, literally, and everyone will be going so good, bad or indifferent it is a big event and yes it will be fun.
As a sidebar, my bank card got blocked last week. I wrang the bank and they said they were worried about fraudulent activity so had for security reasons blocked it. I asked what happened and they said “someone tried to buy Footloose tickets with it and we could not believe it was you…”. Now that is personal services! My bank manager really knows me.

We have coming up in the next few weeks karaoke, relax I won’t sing! I take on my usual Waldorf and Staddler role of watching and making arsenic comments. We have the Cayman National Choir Performing (we know half the people in it!).

In the last few weeks I have had the pleasure of being invited to the Governor’s residents for drinks, attended a steel pan competition (my school won). Poppy and I go walking twice a week, mostly exploring and being nosey but we love it. We have had four carnivals the last two of which were eye-popping!

Crab season is around the corner so we are building a cage to catch and purge some for our crab supper night that’s coming up.

Oh the hummingbird is back, no this is not code, I am sat here watching a tiny bird hovering by a flower not five feet away, a gentle breeze is blowing and it is just taking the edge off the heat. 9:30am now, the family are storing so I think it must be time to put my trunks on call Paul and head out to do my training swim. Like a I said I am getting ready for the Flowers Sea Swim next month.

So ten months in I guess we are settling into the rhythm life.

Wish you were here?

Crabs 2 – The Return!

After our crustacean visitor earlier in the week we went out crab spotting in the woods near us. We found loads and some were twice the size of our friend. So we wonder how big land crabs got and how common they are.

As for the latter 90% of the island is swampy forest so we reckons 100s of thousands to millions.

How big?

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​​This big!this chap was nearly a foot wide I caught him on the way home from work tonight. I expect he is quite big but I bet they get bigger. Good eating apparently!


But we let him go to live another day. 

dé·jà vu…

WARNING THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS A SMIDGE OF NAME DROPPING.

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I did try to warn you so now you only have yourself to blame…

Tonight I attended a function at Government House the home of the Governor of the Cayman Islands.

On arrival the guests were greeted at the door by the Deputy Governor His Excellency Franz Manderson. We passed through the livingroom to the garden terrace overlooking The Governors Beach.

A bar was set up in the garden serving drinks. While we mingled canapes were served.

We were treated to a stunning sunset and a green flash!

But perhaps the most startling aspect of the whole evening, for me, was the fact that from the moment I arrived and walked up the drive I was struck by an overwhwlming sense of familiarity about the whole place.

A British Colonial bungalow. Not all that different from the one I lived in for a while as a child!

The house was very similar to the house we had on Jalan Richie in Ampang (Malaysia). the layout of the house was near identical to one of my childhood homes.

I felt quite at home!